Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Fur Trimmed Cascade Duffle Coat Round Five

Last Monday, August 10th, I found out that I made it into Round 5 of the Super Online Sewing Match!!!  I felt excited and thankful to have moved forward into the last challenge. In Round 5 we were asked to create the Cascade Duffle Coat by Grainline Studio. We were also given $100 to spend at Fabric Depot. Teresa Coates at Fabric Depot was wonderful and offered to help all three of us in this round. She and I texted back and fourth until I found what I was looking for. Teresa took pictures of fabric and zippers. It felt like I was in the store with her shopping. I have to say Fabric Depot surprised me by sending the fabric next day air!! They are awesome!
While I waited for my fabric to arrive, I printed out all of the templates and cut out a size 4. Being vertical challenged, I used the lengthen/shorten line and moved everything up 1.5" on all of the bodice templates. 
I decided to make View B which is a longer coat with a hood. I loved the style and look. However making a long coat for a petite frame is very risky. If my fitting is off, I could potentially look even shorter!!! 
I had a few yards of some plaid fabric at home, so I played with the templates and started to work on fitting. I overlapped the .5" seam allowance and taped together templates 2 (front upper body) and 26 (front lower body). I did the same for templates 4 (back upper body) and 27 (back lower body). The coat looked longer by taking out the seam on the hip line. Horizontal lines on a petite frame should be used across the natural waist line to help create shape. 
After taping, I cut the taped templates 2 and 26 vertically and then added a .5" seam allowance to make a princess seam down the front of the coat. This allowed the coat look long but proportional to my petite frame. 
I started to look through my coat closet. Most of my coats are hip length and navy or black. I also noticed I had two plaid coats but I never wore them. I had to start thinking about fabric, wool and what my Cascade Duffle Coat was going to look like in the end. Creating a Cascade Coat Pinterest board helped me brainstorm ideas.
My wool fabric color is camel, it is a great color to transition from fall to winter. I was very pleased in the color and texture of the wool. Teresa also found a black zipper with a silver zipper pull. Adding small details like this to your sewing projects can raise the level of your handmade garments. 
The lining fabrics are Bemberg, Ambiance, which is 100% rayon lining in the color of purple. I also used a purple plaid flannel as an accent. The toggles are from M&J Trimmings
The fur trim is from a sweater I had that started to fall apart, so I repurposed the fur trim for this project. It is faux fur but I love how soft and perfect the color is for this coat.
Once I had all of my supplies and the templates were taped and cut again, I was ready to cut out my coat. There are a lot of pieces for this coat. I found it helpful to make piles of main fabric, lining and interfacing. Making this coat was a lot of fun. I used my walking pressure foot on my sewing machine so that the layers would not shift during the sewing process. 
The fur trim was a little insane to put on. However, my sewing machine was a trooper. When I attached the fur trim I left 2" of hood on either side without trim. This made it easier when constructing the coat.
The magic of making this coat happens when attaching the lining to the coat's outer shell. I love how it is like turning a bag! Everything is sewn by machine nicely together (even the sleeves), then you trim the seams and corners and finally flip it right sides out. I was thinking there is no way all of this is going to work and then it pops out right sides out and you actually have a coat!!!! It was a little scary and amazing at the same time. 
I highly recommend this pattern. It is a classic style coat that never goes out of style. The wool is warm and the lining fabric is silky soft. Thank you so much for hosting this competition Kristin and Beth from Sew Mama Sew! Thank you Fabric Depot for the wonderful fabric and thank you Jennifer Beeman for a great pattern, I have to try your Morris Blazer! Can't wait to see the other contestants entries and the sewing communities entries too!
Size: 4
Fabric: Camel Wool from Fabric Depot, purple plaid flannel and purple Bemberg lining.
Notions: Black zipper, toggles, faux fur trim
Best Wishes and tons of Stitches!


In My Sewing Box said...

Your coat looks fabulous, love the fur trim and the tartan. Good luck.

pennydog said...

What a great coat! Is it just me or does Teresa have a very appropriate surname?!

Teresa said...

Wow this looks great! I love the addition of the princess seam and the fur on the hood looks so cozy! Everything looks very professional! This challenge had me so scared and nervous, and in the end I loved sewing a coat!

Unknown said...

Leah, this is absolute perfection! Love your color choices and how you altered it to make it look so lovely on you. Kudos for repurposing the faux fur from your old sweater. Good Luck!

Sew Spoiled said...

Thank you! I am a school teacher and we started back this week, so finishing it before the first day of school was an achievement! Thank you for all of the amazing support.

miss kate said...

So pretty! Love the snugly fur-trimmed hood 😊

Sew Spoiled said...

Thank you I can't wait to wear it when it gets cold.

Dk's Wife said...

The coat is fabulous.

Shannon said...

Your coat turned out so well! I love the princess seams - they're so flattering!

Sue @ A Colourful Canvas said...

Fantastic!!! Your coat fits like a dream, and the details are so beautifully executed! It's been fun following along throughout the contest. Best of luck to you!

Paige said...

Your version is wonderful. The fur and closures just make it! Good Luck!

Sew Spoiled said...

Thank you so much! Thank you for your comments.

jodie said...

Oh, that lining fabric is gorgeous!

Anonymous said...

I've really enjoyed following your entries for the sewing match. Great job and best of luck in your future sewing. My favorite entry of yours was this coat!